Versatility - Surf School Tip
I think the majority of surfers tend to surf better in either small or big surf. Ever noticed that.
A guy who rips a beachbreak apart will blow it in bigger wave conditions, while the tube - riding superman can't cutback under four feet. To me both of these guys are missing out. They dont have versatility. You should try and have as much fun in a three foot wave on a beachbreak as you do surfing solid waves over head high, on a reefbreak.
First, you need to be able to adjust your boards. Switching back and forth between big and small surf can be made way harder if you have boards that just dont relate to each other. If your'e planning on a gun, try to get the same guy to make it who made your shortboard.This may actually be the hardest part of being versatile.Second hardest is understanding how your surfing has to change in bigger surf. You are drawing longer lines which is why you need a longer board.
I don't think theres a difference in physical fitness. You should be fit to surf in any sort of wave. A lot of people get hurt surfing smaller waves because they are pushing for bigger maneuvers. In large surf you are more into survival mode. The true key is being loose in the mind. You need to develop confidence in all surfing conditions.Take your time getting used to bigger waves and with time your confidence will grow.
A guy who rips a beachbreak apart will blow it in bigger wave conditions, while the tube - riding superman can't cutback under four feet. To me both of these guys are missing out. They dont have versatility. You should try and have as much fun in a three foot wave on a beachbreak as you do surfing solid waves over head high, on a reefbreak.
First, you need to be able to adjust your boards. Switching back and forth between big and small surf can be made way harder if you have boards that just dont relate to each other. If your'e planning on a gun, try to get the same guy to make it who made your shortboard.This may actually be the hardest part of being versatile.Second hardest is understanding how your surfing has to change in bigger surf. You are drawing longer lines which is why you need a longer board.
I don't think theres a difference in physical fitness. You should be fit to surf in any sort of wave. A lot of people get hurt surfing smaller waves because they are pushing for bigger maneuvers. In large surf you are more into survival mode. The true key is being loose in the mind. You need to develop confidence in all surfing conditions.Take your time getting used to bigger waves and with time your confidence will grow.
Taylor Knox
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| Julian Groom |
